How to make a submarine for a school project - Toy submarine plan

Looking for a submarine school project that actually dives underwater? This fascinating 1918 toy submarine plan shows how to build a simple working submarine model using basic materials and a clever mechanical ballast system.

This ingenious toy submarine, published in 1918, was designed to dive to the bottom of a bathtub, release its own ballast, and then rise back to the surface. No electronics, batteries, or modern technology were needed—just a wooden hull, a small tin can filled with sand, a few nails and brads, rubber bands, and a cleverly designed mechanical trigger.

The design comes from A. Neely Hall’s Carpentry & Mechanics for Boys: Up-to-the-Minute Handicraft, a fascinating handbook of early 20th-century hands-on projects. The submarine demonstrates some surprisingly sophisticated ideas: buoyancy, ballast, mechanical triggers, springs, and underwater movement.

Even more intriguing, the original instructions explain how the submarine could be made to stay on the bottom, move through the water, perform maneuvers, and eventually release its ballast to return to the surface.

So, how did a 1918 schoolboy build a submarine with materials found in an ordinary workshop?

Here is the original plan, diagrams, and instructions from the book.

How to Make a Submarine for a School Project: DIY Toy Submarine Plan

Excerpt from the book: "Carpentry & mechanics for boys: up-to-the-minute handicraft" by Hall, A. Neely (Albert Neely), Publication date 1918 / Publisher Boston: Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co.

The toy submarine described on the following pages is a model recently devised by the author. A photograph of this toy is shown in Fig. 268, on the page facing page 129, a side elevation is shown in Fig. 269, and an end elevation is shown in Fig. 270.

This toy submarine dives then returns to the surface.

The Mechanism is best understood by referring to the diagrams of Figs. 269 and 270. The central section D is a tin can filled with sand, for ballast. One end is supported upon a brad, the other end upon the trigger E. Trigger E is held by catch J, which slips into a notch cut in the edge of E. Can D is of sufficient weight when filled with sand, to sink the submarine. When the submarine reaches the bottom of the bath-tub — a tub furnishes a good "zone" for operations — nail F in trigger E comes in contact with the tub bottom with sufficient force to throw trigger E out of position and release catch Ј.

Catch Ј is sprung out of the way by rubber-band K, trigger E is sprung out of the way by rubber-band G (see dotted lines in Fig. 269), and can D is released. Relieved of its ballast, the submarine rises to the surface. To make the boat dive again, it is but necessary to attach the tin can and reset the trigger.
Instead of having the submarine dive, discharge its weight, and instantly rise to the surface, you can make the trigger mechanism less delicate, so that it will not be sprung by slight contact. Then a gentle submersion to the tub bottom will not bring about the springing of the trigger, and the boat will remain upon the bottom. With a stream of water from a bath-spray forced against the stern, the boat may be propelled forward, and by directing the force of the stream against different portions of the boat you can cause the boat to go through all sorts of maneuvers, even to rising nearly to the surface.
Finally, by driving the contact point forcibly against the foot of the bath tub, or against an obstruction placed on the tub bottom, the trigger may be sprung, and the boat, relieved of its weight, will rise to the surface.
The simplicity of the work in making this mechanical toy will surprise you. 

Figure 271 shows a pattern for The Hull and Upper Decks (A), which are made in one piece. Radii for describing the arcs for the bow and stern of the hull are not given, because after you have located the points for the beginning and end of these curves, as shown, you can easily draw them free-hand. The cutting can be done with a saw and chisel. Cut the ends of the pocket for the tin can weight with a saw, then split out the wood between the saw cuts, or kerfs, with a chisel. Taper the sides of the bow as shown in Figs. 268 and 273.

Figure 272 shows a pattern for deck pieces B. Lay these out in one piece, as indicated, cut out the piece, saw it in half, and nail the halves to the sides of block A in the positions shown (Figs. 269, 270, and 274).
Strips C (Fig. 269) are fastened each side of block A (Fig. 270), directly below deck pieces B, to complete

The Ballast Pocket for can D. Figure 278 shows a pattern for these pocket strips. For the can ballast procure a 1/4-pound baking-powder can. Pack this full of sand, and if the cover fits loosely, coat the edge with paint to make it stick fast.

Figures 276 and 279 show details of The Trigger for Releasing the Ballast. Drive the nail F, a 3-inch finishing-nail, into the edge of the trigger at the angle shown. Figures 277 and 280 show how the trigger catch J is made. The bow of the hull must be slotted to receive the upper ends of trigger E and catch Ј, as indicated in Figs. 271 and 273.
The sides of the slot can be sawed down to the depth indicated by a dotted line in Fig. 271, then the wood between the saw kerfs can be split out with a chisel. Use brads for pivoting the trigger and catch blocks between the sides of the slot. Positions for the pivots are located in Fig. 271.
Figure 269 and Figs. 273 to 277 explain the assembling and adjustment of the trigger and catch blocks, also of the rubber-bands for springing them.
Rubber-band G extends from contact nail F to a screw I in the bow (Figs. 273 and 276). To keep it from interfering with rubber-band K, which extends from a brad in the lower end of catch J to screw I (Figs. 273 and 277), rubber-band G is run up and over a pair of brads (#) driven into block A upon opposite sides, then over to screw I (Fig. 273).

When you have connected the trigger mechanism, you will probably find slight readjustments necessary to bring about a nicety of operation. To support the stern end of the tin can, drive a brad into block A in the position indicated in Fig. 273. The projecting rim on the can bottom will rest upon the head of this brad.
This type of submarine has two Periscopes. Two brass screw-hooks 2 inches in length (L, Fig. 269) answer the purpose. Screw a round-head screw (M, Figs. 269 and 273) into the bow end of the second deck.

Painting.
Use a battleship-grey in painting the toy submarine. Remove the rubber-bands, to keep them from being gobbed with paint, and sandpaper all surfaces smooth.
Submerging the Submarine Upon Lake or Pond can be done successfully if provision is made for recovering the tin can ballast. Try this scheme. Connect one end of a line to the tin can, and retain the other end of the line in your hand. After the ballast has been released, it will be easy enough to pull it out of the water by means of the line.

Read more: How to Make Homemade Wooden Toys – Free printable Vintage Projects

Super Dreadnought Battleship Toy Plan – DIY Model Boat Plans

To make a model that would be an exact reproduction of a battleship, you would not only have to possess a set of scale drawings of the ship, but an abundance of patience, and a willingness to devote lots of time to the work. The author would be glad if you could make an exact model because he knows that you would get a great deal of enjoyment and practical experience out of the work, but he suggests that your first model be simple. You can elaborate upon a second model as much as you please.

Excerpt from the book: "Carpentry & mechanics for boys: up-to-the-minute handicraft" by Hall, A. Neely (Albert Neely), Publication date 1918 / Publisher Boston: Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co.

The way to make a simplified model of a battleship, building, piece of machinery, or any other structure, is to get a picture of it, or to look upon the object itself, and pick out the half dozen or so parts which determine its contour; then reproduce these parts in as nearly the correct proportion as you can. Take the author's model, shown in the photograph of Fig. 251, for example.
The essential parts are not many. They are the hull, deck, masts, funnels, main-battery guns and turrets, and the secondary-battery guns below the deck. The deck-rails, fighting-tops, and wireless aerial might be omitted without destroying the lines which give the ship its form. Details other than those shown upon the model illustrated can be added if you wish to spend more time upon the work.

Materials
The best material for model making is white pine, but cypress, spruce, or any other soft wood, will serve the purpose. For the hull of the battleship model shown in Fig. 251 a piece of 2 by 4 is of the right width and thickness. The funnels, turrets, and fighting-tops also can be cut out of a 2 by 4. A board 5/8 inch thick is required for the superstructure-deck. The masts require a narrow strip of wire cloth with 1/4 inch mesh, and four spools. The deck rails are also made of wire cloth. Spools are used for wheels to mount the model on. The guns are cut from dowel-sticks 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch in diameter, the small gun mounts are cut from a 3/8-inch dowel-stick. The pins connecting the various parts are cut from 1/4 inch dowel-sticks.
Button-moulds 1 1/4 inches in diameter fit over the ends of the gun turret pivots.

 Figure 252 shows a plan and side elevation of

The Hull,
with all of the dimensions necessary for cutting it out. Figure 253 shows the completed hull. The curves of the ends should be alike, and the best way to get them alike is to draw a center-line lengthwise, and another center-line crosswise of the block; then mark out one-half of the outline of one side, drawing the straight line with a ruler, the curved line freehand. Trace this much upon tissue-paper, reverse the paper, and transfer the line each side of the center-lines, to complete the outline. First, cut out the block roughly with a saw, then finish up close to the outline with a plane, and sandpaper the edges smooth.



The Superstructure-Deck (B, Figs. 254 and 255) may be marked out by placing the hull block upon a board 5/8 inch thick and marking out around its sides. 


The deck piece is a trifle more than two-thirds of the length of the hull. The dimensions are on the diagrams (Fig. 254).
Openings for the guns must be cut in the deck piece along the side edges. The openings are made by boring ½ inch holes 1/2 inch deep (Figs. 251 and 255). They are located in Fig. 254.   The centers are placed 1/8 inch inside of the edges so that brads can be driven through the centers for pivots for the guns. Bore the holes before cutting out piece B, so there will be no danger of splitting the edges. Be careful to bore all holes of equal depth.

 Funnels C, conning-tower E, fighting-tops K, turret bases M, and turrets N (Fig. 255) are most easily prepared as shown in Figs. 256 and 257. If you can get round sticks of this diameter — rug-poles or portiere poles, — use them; otherwise, plane up two blocks, one 1 1/2  inches square, the other 1 ¾ inches square, describe a circle with the given radii upon the ends of the blocks, and whittle or plane the edges until the blocks are round. Finish up the surfaces with sandpaper. With the blocks prepared, it is an easy matter to saw them up to the lengths required. The tops of
The Funnels
will look better if bored out for a depth of 1/2 inch or so (Fig. 255). Bore the holes before rounding the block the funnels are to be cut out of, to prevent splitting. The funnels are fastened to the deck with dowel-pins D (Fig. 255). Bore the pin holes in the deck where located in Fig. 254, and in the center of the funnel ends. Coat the dowel-pins and funnel ends with glue, before driving the dowel-pins into the holes.



Flatten two opposite sides of block E (Fig. 257) for
The Conning-Tower, by cutting away a section of each side, as shown in Fig. 255. Peg this block to the deck with a dowel-pin driven into a hole bored at the point located in Fig. 254.
The Masts are built up of strips of wire cloth (G and H, (Fig. 258) rolled into cylinders with a spool inserted in each end (I and J, Fig. 255). The strips of wire cloth can be rolled around the spools. Turn in the raw side edges of the wire strips so the wire cylinders will hold their shape. The sticks running through spools J (Fig. 255) are crosstrees from which the wireless-telegraph aerial ( U) is suspended. Peg spool I of the foremast to block E with dowel-pin F, and peg spool I of the aftermost mast to the deck where the dowel-pin hole is located in Figs. 254 and 255 with another dowel-pin (F). Make the spreaders of
The Wireless Aerial (Fig. 255)
out of slender sticks, and use black thread for the wire strands ( U).
Fighting-Tops K are fastened to mast spools / by means of dowel-pins L, which are driven into the spool holes.

The Turret Bases and Turrets. 
Holes must be bored through the center of turret blocks N, turret base blocks M, and into the decks (Figs. 251, 253 and 255), for dowel-pin pivots P to run through. These holes are located in Figs.252 and 254.
Make the pivots out of ¼ inch dowel-sticks, or whittle sticks to this diameter. Glue the lower ends of the pivots in the holes bored in the decks, whittle the upper ends to fit the holes in button-moulds measuring 1 1/4 inches in diameter (Q, Fig. 255), and glue the button-moulds to the pivot ends after the turret base blocks and turret blocks have been slipped over the pivots. Holes must be bored in the side of the turret blocks for the guns to run into. To lessen the danger of splitting the blocks while boring, it is best to bore the holes before sawing the blocks from the stick from which they are cut. Figure 257 shows the location of the holes.

The Main Battery Guns (0, Fig. 255), mounted in the turrets, are shown in detail in Fig. 259. Take a 34-inch dowel-stick, or a stick whittled to this diameter, and cut from it eight pieces of the length shown (Fig. 261), then with a small wood-bit or drill, start a hole for the bore in the muzzle end of the guns, and with a jack-knife carefully taper the guns from end to end, as shown in Fig. 259. Smooth up the guns with sandpaper. Glue them in the holes in the turret blocks.

The Secondary-Battery Guns are mounted in the round blocks R (Fig. 255). Cut fourteen of the blocks from a 3/8-inch dowel-stick (Fig. 262). With a small bit or drill make a pivot hole through the center of the ends of each block, and another hole in the side of the block to run the gun into. Prepare the guns of the shape shown in Fig. 260. Cut them from a dowel-stick 1/8 inch in diameter (Fig. 263). Start a hole in the muzzle end of each gun for the bore.


The Flagstaffs (V, Fig. 255) are 3 inches long. Drill holes for them at the bow and stern of the decks.
The Deck-Rails are made of strips of wire cloth. Cut two strips 1/2 inch wide, one for the superstructure deck, the other for the lower deck. Drive 3/4-inch brads into the decks close to the sides (W, Fig. 264), bend the wire strips around the brads, and with wire bind them to the brads.





By fastening Keel Strips X (Figs. 265 and 266) to the bottom of the hull, and mounting wheels upon axels run through screw-eyes screwed into the keel strips (Fig. 266), for
A Running-Gear, your toy battleship will both float upon water and run upon land. Cut off the ends of a pair of spools for wheels (Y, Fig. 267), and fit 1/4-inch dowel-sticks into them for axles (Z).
Painting.


With all work done as directed, the dreadnought will be ready for its coat of battleship - grey. The author suggests that you paint all the parts before assembling. It will be easier, and the parts can be allowed to become thoroughly dry before they are assembled, which will prevent the sticking of such pivoted parts as the gun-turrets and rapid-fire gun mounts. Surfaces marred while Assembling can be touched up afterward. There is not much work to put the model together when all parts have been properly fitted. In mounting the secondary battery guns, slip the fourteen-gun mounts into the holes bored in the deck piece, then nail the deck piece to the hull, and drive brad pivots down through the deck and gun mounts, into the hull. Figure 255 indicates very plainly where the funnels, masts and other parts go, and fastening them in place is for the most part simply a job of gluing.

Square puzzle - How to make wooden puzzles for kids - Wooden puzzles plans

Of the pasteboard or white holly cut out eight squares of whatever size desired; divide four of them into halves by cutting them from corner to corner, so there are in all twelve pieces.
The puzzle is to form a square of these twelve pieces. The illustration shows how this is done.
When the puzzle is given to the little folks, no " key " should accompany it, but the children should try to put it together without help. If, however, you find they begin to lose interest, show them the first step, and encourage them to try to finish it by themselves.

There are great differences in children in this respect; some persevering and unwilling to be helped at all, while others become discouraged at the smallest obstacles and refuse to try. The latter should be encouraged by a little help, care being taken, however, that they do a considerable portion of the work themselves.
No doubt this " indolence," as it is sometimes erroneously called, is generally due to a weak physical condition, rather than to inferior mental powers. A child of this temperament, instead of being ridiculed by his more vigorous companions, should be encouraged and stimulated to action; and such games or puzzles as those contained in this book are just the things to accomplish this end.

Excerpt from the book: How? or, Spare hours made profitable for boys and girls by Holbrook, Kennedy / Publication date 1887 / Publisher New York, Worthington co.

Cross Puzzle - How to make wooden puzzles for kids - Wooden puzzles plans

In this puzzle, the pieces composing the cross may be made of pasteboard, but are better and stronger if made of the white holly or other thin "bracket wood."
Cut three pieces—with the jig-saw, of course—in shape like Fig. 1, one piece like Fig. 2, and one like Fig. 3.
These pieces may be of any size, but relatively each one must correspond with the sizes and shapes indicated in the diagram.

Paint as fancy may dictate, after smoothing the edges off with sand-paper. Pack in a box treated.
When the puzzle is given to the little folks, no " key " should accompany it, but the children should try to put it together without help. If, however, you find they begin to lose interest, show them the first step, and encourage them to try to finish it by themselves.
There are great differences in children in this respect; some persevering and unwilling to be helped at all, while others become discouraged at the smallest obstacles and refuse to try. The latter should be encouraged by a little help, care being taken, however, that they do a considerable portion of the work themselves.
No doubt this " indolence," as it is sometimes erroneously called, is generally due to a weak physical condition, rather than to inferior mental powers. A child of this temperament, instead of being ridiculed by his more vigorous companions, should be encouraged and stimulated to action; and such games or puzzles as those contained in this book are just the things to accomplish this end.

Excerpt from the book: How? or, Spare hours made profitable for boys and girls by Holbrook, Kennedy / Publication date 1887 / Publisher New York, Worthington co.

Octagon puzzle - How to make wooden puzzles for kids - Wooden puzzles plans

This puzzle consists of twelve irregular pieces of stiff pasteboard or wood, which are to be arranged in the form of an octagon.
Although these pieces can be cut from pasteboard, they are more lasting, stronger, and better every way if made of wood. White holly, such as is employed for brackets, is a nice material to use.
With a jig-saw cut four pieces in shape like that represented in Fig. 1, four like Fig. 2, and four more like Fig. 3 ; rub the edges down with sand-paper, and, if you like, paint each set a different color. When the paint is dry, varnish them.

Pack them in a small pasteboard box, which you can neatly cover with paper—any fancy color will do—and you will find your little brother or sister will be as well pleased with them as with many toys which have come directly from the store.
When the puzzle is given to the little folks, no " key " should accompany it, but the children should try to put it together without help. If, however, you find they begin to lose interest, show them the first step, and encourage them to try to finish it by themselves.
There are great differences in children in this respect; some persevering and unwilling to be helped at all, while others become discouraged at the smallest obstacles and refuse to try. The latter should be encouraged by a little help, care being taken, however, that they do a considerable portion of the work themselves.
No doubt this " indolence," as it is sometimes erroneously called, is generally due to a weak physical condition, rather than to inferior mental powers. A child of this temperament, instead of being ridiculed by his more vigorous companions, should be encouraged and stimulated to action; and such games or puzzles as those contained in this book are just the things to accomplish this end.

Excerpt from the book: How? or, Spare hours made profitable for boys and girls by Holbrook, Kennedy / Publication date 1887 / Publisher New York, Worthington co.

How to make Bow and Arrow and How to make Arrows for a Bow - Traditional Archery

Authorities claim that the best materials from which to make bows are mulberry, sassafras, Southern cedar, black locust, black walnut, apple, and slippery elm, in the order named; but if a boy selects what appears to be a good sound piece of wood, with straight grain, he has something which will suit the purpose.

Excerpt from the book - THE BOY CRAFTSMAN
Practical and Profitable Ideas for a Boy's Leisure Hours
BY A. Neely Hall
(Published, August, 1905.)
Fig. 241.—A Boy's Bow.

The Length of the Bow should be about the height of the person using it. Figure 241 shows a five-foot bow, with the other proportions such as are on makes to be found in the stores. Cut your piece of wood five feet long, and, after placing it in the bench-vise, shape it down with a draw-knife or plane until it is one inch wide by one-half inch thick at the handle and three-quarters of an inch wide by one-quarter inch thick at the ends. The bow can be made round on the inside or face toward the archer, and flat on the outside or face away from the archer, or the two faces may be made round. Cut a notch in the bow two inches from each end, as shown in the illustration, from which to attach

The Bow-string.

A cord with as little elasticity as possible should be used for this. If you care to spend the money for it, a good cotton string can be purchased from a dealer in archery goods for twenty-five cents. With a home-made bow-string, a loop should be made in one end and bound with thread, as shown in Fig. 242. Slip the loop over the upper notch, bend the bow until the centre of the string is about five inches away from the handle, and attach the loose end to the lower notch by means of a slip-knot similar to that shown in Fig. 243. The bow should be sand-papered until smooth, and thoroughly oiled with linseed-oil. A piece of velvet about three inches wide should be glued about the centre for a handle.

For a five-foot bow, cut

The Arrow-shafts twenty-four inches long and one-quarter inch thick. Whittle them out of straight-grained strips of wood, round them nicely, and cut a notch in the ends large enough to fit over the bow-strings.

It is not supposed that boys would care

Fig. 242-243. Bow-string Ends.

To Prepare Arrow-heads of stone or bone as the Indians did, for there are other schemes that are simpler to carry out. If the wood is reasonably hard, the heads can be cut on the ends of the shaft, as shown in Fig. 244. For target practice, a wire nail driven into the end of the shaft, as shown in Fig. 245, with the head of the nail filed off and pointed, has proven very good, and a thick piece of zinc or lead, cut the shape of A (Fig. 246) and set into a slot cut in the end of the shaft, with cord bound around the shaft to hold the metal in place, makes another excellent head. The metal points should be used only for target practice, and then with proper care, to prevent injury to yourself or companions.

Figs. 244-246.—Schemes for Arrow-heads.

Feathering is the next operation. Turkey or goose feathers are generally used, but the former is considered the better of the two. Strip off the broader side of the vane of three feathers, and glue them to the shaft one and one-quarter inches from the notch, spacing them equidistant from one another. One feather should be placed at right angles to the notch. This is known as the cock-feather, and should always point away from the bow when the arrow is shot.

A Quiver of some sort should be provided, large enough to carry a dozen or more arrows, and this should be three inches shorter than the arrows, so that their ends will project above the top. It may be made out of any thick cloth, as shown in Fig. 247. A circular piece of cardboard is placed in the bottom to which the cloth is sewed, and a piece of heavy wire, bent into a circle, fits in the top to keep the bag open. The quiver should hang on your right side, being suspended by means of a cloth strap long enough to pass over the left shoulder.

Fig. 247.—A Quiver.

To Shoot with the bow, take the position shown in Fig. 248, with both feet flat upon the ground, and the heels in line with the target. Hold the handle of the bow in the left hand and place an arrow on the left side of the bow, slipping the bow-string into the notch and letting the head of the arrow rest upon your left hand. Catch the bow-string with the first three fingers of your right hand, so that the end of the arrow comes between the first and second fingers, and draw the string until the head of the arrow rests upon the left hand; then aim quickly and let go of the arrow. By always taking the same hold upon your bow and arrow, you will soon be able to know just where the arrow is going to strike.

The boy who has had the hobby of collecting Indian arrow-heads has no doubt often wondered how they were made, and also how the bows and arrows were prepared. The ways in which all uncivilized people do things is interesting, and especially when it is remembered that they had but raw materials with which to work and only such tools as they could make out of stone.

Fig. 248.—Correct Position for Shooting.

The Indian's Bow was made of different woods, and, though it varied in shape and size, was generally about forty inches in length, so as to be conveniently carried and handled on horseback. The bow-string consisted generally of a deer sinew or a strand of deer-skin rolled or twisted, and this was strung very tightly from a notch cut on one end of the bow to a notch on the opposite end. Now, while an Indian generally made the greater part of his weapons, there was always a warrior in the tribe who was skilled in the art of arrow-making, and, as the preparation required far more care than the bow, he was intrusted with this work. The arrow-shaft was made of various woods, reeds being often used, as they were straight and required but little cutting. Their lengths depended largely upon that of the bows.

For the feathering of the shafts, wild turkey feathers were considered best and used when they could be had, and these were attached to the shaft with deer sinews.

A great variety of materials were used for arrow-heads, among which flint, obsidian, horn of deer, claws of eagles, and the spurs of wild turkey-cocks may be mentioned. Many of these are being picked up annually in the mountains and on the plains, which were once the battle-fields and hunting-grounds of the redmen, and in excavating for building purposes they are frequently found. A few specimens of stone heads showing a variety of the shapes and sizes used will be found in Fig. 249. The preparation of these heads was usually left to the old men who were unfit for any other work.

 
Fig. 249.—Some Specimens of Indian Arrow-heads.

In making the flint head, the Indian made a loop in a piece of buckskin which had been thoroughly wet in cold water, and then taking a piece of flint, heated it, and with the strip of buckskin chipped off what was not wanted until the head was of the correct shape and size. As hornstone is more brittle than quartz, the heads made from that material were broken and shaped by striking them against the latter. The stone heads were attached to the shaft by means of sinews, generally from deer. For hunting small birds, the Indians often made wooden arrow-heads, hardening the wood by fire after shaping it.


Excerpt from the book - THE BOY CRAFTSMAN
Practical and Profitable Ideas for a Boy's Leisure Hours
BY A. Neely Hall
With more than four hundred illustrations by the author and Norman P. Hall
BOSTON
LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO.
Published, August, 1905.

Jack in the Box - How to Make a Jack in the Box Toy

Jack in the Box 
A Jack in the box is a simpler toy to make than you might imagine.
The box should measure about 5¾ inches by 5¾ inches by 5 inches.
Hinge the cover to the top with two pieces of heavy cloth; glue one piece to the inside of the cover and box, and the other to the outside.

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS - BOOKS BY A. NEELY HALLLOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON - Published, August, 1915

Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover, and below it fasten a small hook on to the box; the hook may be bent from a short piece of wire.
A spiral spring from an old bed-spring will do for Jack's body, but if you cannot get one of these it is a simple matter to make a spring.
Take a piece of No. 12 gauge wire about 10 feet in length and wind it around a rolling-pin or anything that is cylindrical and about 2½ inches in diameter. Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed tacks upon a piece of wood cut to fit the inside of the box (Fig. 290), then procure a small doll's head, baste a circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring and to this sew the head.

Make a cloth fool's cap to glue on Jack's head, covering his hair entirely, and also a loose jacket to fit over his spiral body; for these use any bright-colored cotton cloth that will fall into folds easily.
Tack the base of the spring to the bottom of the box.

Make your own toys - Learn How to make:

- Jumping Jack Toy

- Merry Go Round Toy

- Cricket Rattle Toy

- Shooting Gallery Game for Kids

Homemade Doll Furniture - How to Make Dolls House Furniture

Homemade Doll Furniture - How to Make Dolls House Furniture

The metal furniture which you can buy is very pretty when it is new, but this new appearance does not last long after it has come into a youngster's possession, for the pieces are very slender and delicate, and thus easily broken.

Wooden furniture is the most durable kind, and plain and simple pieces will generally outlast the fancy ones. The designs illustrated in this chapter make very substantial pieces, as there are no spindle legs or fancy arms to break off. They follow the lines of the mission furniture, that simple style used in the early American mission schools, and which is to-day being extensively made in handsome pieces for the furnishings of modern homes. You will find the

Miniature Mission Furniture, illustrated and described in this chapter, simple to make and something which is easy to sell, for there is nothing like it at present upon the market.

Cigar-boxes furnish the nicest material for making this furniture, and the various parts can be cut to the right shape and size with.

A Scroll-Saw. Procure small brads and glue with which to fasten the pieces together.

Make your own toys - Learn How to make:

- Jumping Jack Toy

- Merry Go Round Toy

- Cricket Rattle Toy

- Shooting Gallery Game for Kids

To Prepare the Cigar-boxes for use, place them in a tub of boiling water and let them remain there until the paper labels readily pull off. Do not use a knife in removing the paper, as it is likely to roughen the wood. The paper will come off by allowing it to soak long enough. When the boxes are clean, set them in the sun to dry, after binding the covers to the backs to prevent them from warping. Pull the boxes apart when they are thoroughly dry, and throw out such pieces as have printing upon them, for these would spoil the appearance of the furniture if used.

In order to simplify the matter of cutting the parts that make the furniture, the curved pieces have been drawn out carefully on page 177, so that they can be laid off upon the strips of cigar-boxes without any trouble, by the process of

Enlarging by Squares. These drawings are shown one-quarter of their full size (half their width and half their height). To enlarge them procure a piece of cardboard nine by thirteen inches, or a little larger than twice the size of the drawing each way, and divide it into squares just twice the size of those on page 177.
That will make sixteen squares in the width of the cardboard and twenty-four in the length, each half an inch square. In order to get the squares spaced equally, it is best to lay off the points first with a ruler along the top, bottom, and two sides of the sheet of cardboard, and then connect the points with the ruler and a sharp lead-pencil. Then number the squares as in the illustration, using the figures along the sides and letters across the top and bottom of the sheet.

With the sheet of cardboard thus prepared it is a simple matter to

Reproduce the Drawings of Figs. 259 to 266 by locating the points of the curves and corners of the pieces, as shown in the illustrations, in corresponding positions in the squares on your cardboard sheet. The curves may be drawn in by eye, after locating them with reference to their surrounding squares, but the surest way of enlarging them accurately is by laying off the points where the curve strikes each horizontal and vertical line in the illustration, upon the enlarged drawing. These points can then be connected with a curved line.

Make all of the lines heavy so they can be distinguished from your guide lines, and after carefully going over the drawing, comparing it with that on page 177 to see that no mistake has been made in locating the points in enlarging, cut the various pieces apart. These will give you

The Patterns with which to mark out the pieces on the wood.

 Figs. 259-266.—Patterns for Furniture.

Handmade Doll Furniture

We will first note the construction of

The Chairs shown in Figs. 267 and 268. These are four and one-half inches high, two inches wide, and an inch and one-half deep. Cut the back for the chair in Fig. 267 four and three-eighths inches high and an inch and three-quarters wide, the sides by the pattern in Fig. 259 and the seat an inch and one-quarter by an inch and three-quarters. With the pieces cut out, fasten them together with brads and glue, placing the seat between the arms and back so that it is an inch and one-half above the base.

Fig. 267.—Chair - handmade doll furniture.
 
Fig. 268.—Chair - handmade doll furniture.

Cut the back for the other chair (Fig. 268) four and one-half inches high by two inches wide, the seat an inch and a quarter by an inch and three-quarters, and the sides an inch and three-eighths wide by two and one-half high. To get the curve in the bottom edge of the side pieces, use the pattern in Fig. 259.

The Settee (Fig. 269) should have its sides cut by the pattern of Fig. 260. Make the back piece three and three-quarters inches wide and three and one-quarter inches high, and the seat three and three-quarters inches by an inch and one-half. Fasten the seat against the back an inch and one-half above the base.

Fig. 269.—A Settee - handmade doll furniture.
Tables for the living-room, dining-room, bedroom, ball-room, and nursery of a doll-house may be patterned after the designs of Figs. 270 and 271. These should be two and one-half inches high to be of proper proportion for the chairs.

Fig. 270.—A Table - handmade doll furniture.

The pieces necessary to make Fig. 270 are a top two inches square, two sides an inch and one-half wide by two and one-half inches high, and a shelf an inch and one-quarter square. Fasten the pieces together as in the illustration, placing the shelf between the side pieces an inch from the bottom.

The other design (Fig. 271) will do nicely for

A Dining-room Table, or table for the center of the living-room. The top of this should be five inches long and three inches wide. Cut the side pieces by the pattern in Fig. 261 and, after fastening them to the under side of the table-top four inches apart, brace them with a strip three and three-quarters inches long by half an inch wide, as shown in Fig. 271.

Fig. 271.—Another Design - handmade doll furniture.

A Side-board similar to Fig. 272 should be made for the dining-room. The pattern for the side pieces is shown in Fig. 262. After sawing these out, cut a piece seven inches long by three inches wide for the back and fasten the side pieces to the edges of it. The location of the shelves can be obtained best by referring to Fig. 272 and the pattern in Fig. 262. Cut the bottom shelf (A in Fig. 272) three inches long by an inch and one-quarter wide and fasten it to the side pieces half an inch above the base (line 24 on pattern, Fig. 262). Make shelf B three by one inches and place it at line 22. C should be three and three-quarters inches long by an inch and one-half wide, with a small notch cut near each end with your knife, to make it fit over the side pieces (see illustration).
Cut shelf D three inches long by half an inch wide, fastening it in place at line No. 17, E three inches long by seven-sixteenths of an inch wide, fastening it at line No. 15, and F three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide, fastening it at line No. 13. The top shelf (G) is three and three-quarters inches long and half an inch wide and is fastened to the tops of the side pieces as shown in the drawing.

The lower portion of the side-board is inclosed with two doors two inches high by an inch and one-half wide. Small pieces of cloth may be used for hinges, but it is better to use pins, running them through the shelf above and below (A and C, Fig. 272) into the doors. Stick the pins near the edge of the doors and see that they are straight, so the doors will open easily. A small mirror attached to the back between shelves C and D will complete this piece of furniture.

Fig. 272.—A Side-board - handmade doll furniture.
 
Fig. 273.—A Mirror.
A Mirror in a frame should be made for the living-room of the doll-house. A neat and suitable design for one of these will be seen in Fig. 273. For its construction cut two sides by means of the pattern in Fig. 263, a piece five inches long by three inches wide for the back, and a strip three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide for a shelf. Fasten the sides to the edges of the back piece, and the shelf between the sides about three-quarters of an inch above the base. Now procure a mirror such as you can buy in a toy-shop for five or ten cents (or a piece of a broken mirror cut down to the right size will do very nicely), and attach it to the center of the back.

The Grandfather's Clock (Fig. 274) makes an effective piece of furniture for the hall or living-room, and is easily made. Figure 264 shows the pattern for the front of this clock. The back is made the same, with the omission of the square opening cut in the front frame for the clock-face. Cut a block of wood two by two by three-quarters inches to fit between the frames at the top. After nailing the pieces together, procure a face from a toy watch, and fasten it in the opening made for it in the front frame. A button suspended by means of a piece of thread from a tack placed in the bottom of the block forms the pendulum.

It will be unnecessary to give any suggestions for

Fig. 274.—A Grandfather's Clock.

Kitchen Furniture, such as chairs and tables, for these can also be made out of cigar-box wood similar to the designs illustrated in this chapter, with perhaps a few modifications which will make them simpler.

Now for the making of some pieces of bedroom furniture. You will find in Figs. 275 and 276 two designs that are easily carried out, one or both of which may be used for

The Beds of a doll-house. To make Fig. 275, cut the head and foot by means of the pattern in Fig. 265, and cut the two sides by means of the pattern in Fig. 266. After preparing these pieces and fastening them together as shown in the illustration (Fig. 275), cut a few strips a quarter of an inch wide for slats and fasten them between the sides of the bed. It is advisable to fasten these in place to prevent them from being lost.

The side pieces for the other bed (Fig. 276) are cut out with the same pattern (Fig. 266).

Fig. 275.—A Bed.


Fig. 276.—Another Design.
Make the head and foot pieces three by four and one-half inches, cutting a piece two by an inch and one-quarter out of the top of each as shown in the drawing (Fig. 2766), and using the pattern of the other bed for cutting the curve in the bottom edge. Nail the pieces together in their proper places, after which cut some slats and fasten them in the bottom.

The Dresser (Fig. 277) is made somewhat similar to the side-board. Cut the sides by the same pattern (Fig. 262) and fasten them to the edges of the back piece, which should be six and one-half inches high by three inches wide. Cut shelf A three by one and one-quarter inches, B and C three by one and one-eighth, D three by one and three-sixteenths, and E and F one-half by one and one-quarter inches. Fasten shelf A between the sides at line No. 24 (see Fig. 262), B at line No. 23, C at line No. 22, D at line No. 21, and notch the ends of E and F to fit over the side pieces at line No. 20.

 Fig. 277.—A Dresser - handmade doll furniture.

Drawers to fit the lower shelves of the dresser may be made out of small strips of cigar-boxes or pieces of cardboard, glued together. A small mirror fastened in the position shown in the drawing will complete the work upon this piece of furniture.

A Wash-Stand can be made for the bathroom and each of the bedrooms similar to Fig. 278. The sides for this should be five inches high by an inch and one-quarter wide, and the shelves one by three inches. Fasten the lower shelf three-quarters of an inch above the base, and the top shelf at a height of two and one-half inches. When the stand has been put together, fit a round stick, about an eighth of an inch in diameter, in holes made in the sides with a gimlet (see illustration). This forms the towel-rack. Hang a small drapery over the lower portion of the s tand.

Fig. 278.—A Wash-Stand - handmade doll furniture.

Finishing. When the pieces of furniture have been completed, they should be rubbed down with emery-paper to remove the rough edges, and also any rough places that may have been caused by soaking the boxes in water.
Then give the wood several coats of linseed-oil. This makes a beautiful finish for this kind of wood, which may be improved by adding a coat of wax.
The little hearts may be painted upon the pieces as shown in the illustration, with a small brush and red paint, or may be cut out of red paper and glued to the wood.

If desired, the bedroom furniture may be painted with white enamel.

Other Cigar-box Furniture
Fig. 279.—A Doll's Folding-bed.
In Figs. 279 and Fig. 282 will be found some pieces of furniture that are simpler to make than those just described, and although they may not be so pretty, they present a very good appearance when neatly made.

The author constructed many pieces of this furniture when a boy, and found them suitable as presents, and something that was always easy to sell.

The cost of making a set amounts to but a few cents, cigar-boxes being the principal material. They are also very quickly made, as the boxes require but little cutting.

For the construction of

A Folding-bed, such as is shown in Figs. 279 and 280, select two cigar-boxes, one of which will fit inside the other. The smaller box should be a little shorter than the inside opening of the larger box.

Fig. 280.—Folding-bed (open).
Fig. 281.—Foot.

After removing the paper from each, place the smaller box inside the larger one, as shown in Fig. 279, so that the bottom of the inner box is flush with the edge of the outer box. Then drive a brad through both boxes on each side, about three-quarters of an inch from the end as shown at A (Fig. 279). These brads should run through the outer box into the bottom of the inner box, and should be driven in carefully so as not to split the wood.
The inner box should now fold down as shown in Fig. 280, moving upon the brad pivots. Purchase a five or ten cent mirror and fasten it to the front of the bed, after which cut two wooden feet similar to Fig. 281 and glue the pegs on the ends of these in gimlet holes made above the mirror. Finish the wood the same as described for the other cigar-box furniture.

Fig. 282.—Dresser Completed.

Fig. 283.—A Doll's Dresser.
The Dresser shown in Fig. 282 is made out of a box the same size as the larger one used for the folding-bed. Saw the sides of the box in half, crosswise, and remove the upper half and the end piece. Then nail the end across the tops of the remaining halves of the sides. When this has been done, divide up the lower portion of the box into compartments as shown in the drawing (Fig. 283). This should have a small drapery hung over it. The upper portion of the dresser should have a mirror attached to it, and some lace draped over the top and sides will add greatly to its appearance.

All you will have to do in making

A Wardrobe will be to fasten some small hooks inside of a cigar-box, attach the cover with a strip of linen—the same way it was attached before you soaked it off—and hang a mirror on the front.

These pieces of furniture were designed for separate sets, and would not do for doll-houses the size of those in the preceding chapters, unless the boxes were cut down to smaller proportions.

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS
BOOKS BY A. NEELY HALL
LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON
Published, August, 1915

Toy Stable Plans - A Homemade Toy Stable

Toy Stable Plans - A Homemade Toy Stable

If you prefer a garage instead of this stable, you may omit the stalls, and make one or two large windows in the rear wall in place of the small high windows shown.

 Fig. 238.—Exterior of Stable.
The building's construction is very simple. The dimensions are: width, twenty-four inches; depth, twelve inches; and height, twenty-two inches.
The barn contains five stalls on the ground floor and a hay-loft above.

Fig. 239.—Interior of Stable.

To build the stable according to the drawings, a box ten by twelve by twenty-four inches should be procured for

The First Story. If you have a box of different proportions it will be a simple matter to make such alterations in the details as it will require.

The Roof is made in two sections, each fifteen by eighteen inches, and is fastened to the top of the box so that the peak is twenty-two inches above the bottom.

The Gable-end is made in four pieces, as shown in Fig. 240, A, B, and C, to be nailed in place, and D to be movable as in the case of the doll-house. Make a three-by-five-inch window in the center of D, and fasten the glass in place with strips cut as described in Chapter XIII. Strips should be nailed to the roof just inside of the movable section to prevent the latter from setting in too far, and a spring catch fastened to C and D as shown, to hold the movable section in place.

Fig. 240.—Front Gable-end.
Fig. 241.—Stall Partitions.

Figure 241 gives the patterns and measurements for

The Stall Partitions, four of which should be cut out and fastened to the floor of the stable four inches apart, or so they will divide the inside width into five equal stalls.

The Feed-troughs are made out of two strips of cigar [Pg 163]boxes fitted between the stalls, as shown in Figs. 239 and 241, and are fastened in place by means of brads and glue. Above the stalls cut

Small Windows an inch and one-half square in the rear wall. These are the ventilating windows for the stalls, and may be left open.

Figure 242 shows the construction of

Fig. 242.—Ladder to Hay-loft.

A Ladder to the hay-loft. This is made out of two sticks twelve inches long, with strips of cigar-boxes two inches long glued to them half an inch apart, as shown in the drawing. Cut away a section of the hay-loft floor two inches square and stick the end of the ladder up through the opening, fastening the uprights to the edge of the floor (see Fig. 242).

A stick about three inches long, with a very small pulley attached near the end, should be fastened in the peak of the roof for a Feed-hoist (see Fig. 238).
The first story has

A Drop-front, as shown in Figs. 238 and 239. This is made from the box-cover. Fasten the boards together with battens placed upon the inside, and hinge it to the bottom of the stable. Nail two cleats to the under side of the floor (see Fig. 238) to lift it off the ground just enough to allow the front to drop without springing its hinges.

When the front is down it forms an incline upon which to run the horses into the stable. For this reason it is not advisable to cut an opening in it, but merely

Represent a Stable Door on the outside (see Fig. 238). This is done with paint and a fine brush. First paint a green panel in the center of the front, and then mark off a couple of panels within this space with black paint, and stripe them diagonally to represent beaded-boards.

With strips of wood half an inch wide make

A Simple Trim around the door, the sides of the stable, and around the gable, as shown in the illustration.

When the carpenter work has been finished,

Paint the Inside of the stable white, and the outside the same colors as used for the doll-house (see description in Chapter XIII).

If you Prefer a Garage, use your ingenuity to fit up the interior of the building as you think it ought to be.

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS
BOOKS BY A. NEELY HALL
LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON
Published, August, 1915